When you see the name Dr. Konstantin Frank on a wine label, it represents an American success story derived from the Ukrainian immigrant who used his brains and brawn to turn the Finger Lakes Region of upstate New York into one of the most amazing grape-growing areas in America.
For years, viticulturists struggled to grow high-quality grapes in the five-lake region. They blamed it on the cold weather and a short growing season that kept grapes — especially red varietals — from ripening fully.
Enter Dr. Frank, a professor of plant sciences with a Ph.D. in viticulture, who arrived in the United States in 1951 and later took a job at Cornell University.
Dr. Frank grew grapes in the Ukraine, where conditions mirrored the Finger Lakes, and believed that it was the U.S. rootstock — not the climate — hampering the progress on the vines. He began introducing European vinifera grape varieties to the local terroir.
The professor spoke nine languages, and probably his most difficult conversations were held in English — he tried to convince local grape growers to abandon the native vines for European ones. His extensive research helped, but what really clinched the deal was the world-class Riesling he produced from his small operation — Vinifera Wine Cellars — launched in 1962 on a plot of land on Keuka Lake.
To prove his point further, Dr. Frank planted 60 varietals during the next 23 years — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, to name a few — and crafted them into commercially successful products. One of his biggest achievements was making sparkling wine in the traditional French methode champenoise technique.
Much has happened in the intervening 55 years since Dr. Frank, who died in 1985, started his winery.
A third-generation Frank, grandson Fred, now runs the Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery that sits high above beautiful Keuka Lake. The portfolio has expanded to nearly three dozen red, white, and sparkling wines, including the value brand Salmon Run.
Second, New York state has become the nation’s second-largest wine-producing state (slight edge over Washington state), with the Finger Lakes region representing the key viticultural engine.
Third, while Finger Lakes’ white wines command quality respect, the reds are improving dramatically as global warming extends the growing season.
Last August, I spent a week visiting Keuka Lake wineries with the Wine Goddess, my wife Mary Lee. It’s a seven-hour trip from Lowell, and the ride west through upstate New York’s agricultural landscape is absolutely gorgeous. One of the highlights, of course, was visiting the hallowed ground where Dr. Frank launched a new world of innovation.
A number of Dr. Konstantin Frank’s white and sparkling wines make it into local wine stores, though the best of the reds are snatched up quickly by New Yorkers and rarely make it down the Massachusetts Pike. You can best buy these wines online (www.drfrankwines.com).
Here are a few of my Dr. Frank favorites.
* Rkatsiteli, $14.99: This white varietal dates back 3,000 years to Eastern Europe and is one of the world’s oldest grapes. It makes a classic, sweet dessert wine overseas, but Dr. Frank vinifies it dry where it shows wonderful acidity, floral aromas, and lemon tart and spice flavors. A treat.
* Dry Riesling, $14.99: This is the entry level Riesling among many on the grounds, and it was my favorite. Crisp, clean, refreshing, it puts a lively tingle in the mouth with citrus and apple traits. The top-of-the-line Eugenia Dry Riesling ($29.99) was a knockout, too, but it’s only available to wine-club members.
* Grüner Veltiner, $14.99: The green-apple notes in this native Austrian varietal were impressive. It’s light bodied, smooth textured and dry.
* Chardonnay, $14.99: It’s oaked and carries vanilla, apple pie, and honey notes to the long, dry finish. If you like a creamier style, go for it. If you prefer less oak, try the Salmon Run Chardonnay ($9.99) for snappy pineapple, citrus and mineral notes.
* Blanc de Blancs 2011, $29.99: The velvety, bubbly texture grabbed my attention from the first sip. Fruity and nutty, it had all the elements of a top-notch, sparkler. Very tasty.
* Cabernet Franc, $21.99: A savory, elegant red that will make you wonder if it came from Bordeaux. Spectacular blackberry fruit that is layered with hints of chocolate, earth and wild herbs. Aged for 18 months in oak, the wine has a nice polished, smooth texture.
* Lemberger, $21.99: You can’t get this unless you drive to the winery or buy it online, but it’s worth a taste. Native to Austria, Lemberger has found a home on the banks of Keuka Lake. Dark cherry and spicy notes frame this medium-bodied red. It’s flavorful throughout and features soft tannins. Cool for barbecue fare and even grilled salmon.
* Pinot Noir, $21.99: Who said you can’t grow Pinot Noir in upstate N.Y.? Some of the oldest vines on the property bring this pale ruby-colored, tart strawberry and sour cherry wine to life. It silky, feminine and dry. It puts you in a New York state of mind, for sure.
* Salmon Run Chardonnay Riesling, $9.99: Fred Frank has seemingly perfected this unique blend of Finger Lakes wineries. The varietals are fermented separately and then combined. There is no oak fermentation, just steel tanks. The Wine Goddess loved this so much, we bought a case. It’s dynamic in its pure minerality, sweet apple and citrus tastes, and invigorating palate presence. Available at Costco and most local stores.
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