Bank on JUSTIN for rich, elegant Paso Robles reds

The Paso Robles wine region , located between Los Angeles and San Francisco, is often described as the “wild west of wines” and it’s easy to see why: “El Paso de Robles” (Pass of Oak Trees) was co-founded in 1869 by Drury James, uncle of notorious outlaws Frank and Jesse James. Today, 140 years later, the oaks still stand tall and innovative winemakers ride high on a Central Coast landscape of 32,000 vineyard acres spread out over 11 viticultural zones.

This is a land of great soil diversity (43 different types), consistent climate (warm days, cool nights), biodynamic farming methods, and more than 200 wineries (up from eight in 1980). Rhone- and Bordeaux-style grapes thrive in mineral-rich hillside vineyards soothed by Pacific Ocean breezes.

JUSTIN Winery has captured the essence of Central Coast terroir since its founding in 1981 by Justin Baldwin, an industry pioneer. The operation has grown from a single 160-acre vineyard and  an annual production of 50,000 bottles to four vineyards and more than 120,000 bottles. Much of the expansion can be traced to Fiji Water billionaire Stewart Resnick who, in 2010, purchased the winery for $21 million.

Today, the winery is a popular destination spot, featuring a state-of-the-art production facility, tasting room, restaurant, four-room inn, and the elegant Justin Chateau that lodges up to 10 guests (read more at www.justinwine.com).

JUSTIN’s very satisfying Cabernet Sauvignon ($27) has had a spot on my personal wine list for years, but the iconic Isosocles ($72) and Justification ($50) are the winery’s signature bottlings.

Isosocles has been a hit since its debut 25 years ago, validating Baldwin’s belief that Paso Robles’ vineyards were a good match for growing Left and Right Bank varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc). The wines are characteristically ripe in black fruit flavors, savory, complex and silky smooth.

Recently, I took the JUSTIN plunge and sampled each wine over three separate nights. Here are my tasting notes:

JUSTIN Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 – Deep purple color and refreshing aromatics. Sweet black cherry fruit flavors with hints of raspberry jam and Swiss chocolate. Refreshing and smooth. Paired well with pasta Bolognese (shredded pork) and tomato salad with goat cheese.

Justification 2015 -In recent years Merlot has overtaken Cabernet Franc as the dominant grape partner in this Right Bank model. The vintage I tasted was superb, combining 52 percent Cab Franc with 48 percent Merlot. Rich in plum, black- and blueberry fruit, it coats the tongue with bright sensations like a Monet canvas. The frame is silky smooth. The 2016 version is 57 percent Merlot and I’m anxious to try it, but the 2015 is fine by me. Be careful on fluctuating prices. It’s on sale in New Hampshire for $41.99.

Isosocles 2015 – JUSTIN’s flagship wine continues to shine among California’s stars at a reasonable price point. It’s got a classic Left Bank profile; Cabernet Sauvignon (76%) dominates with lesser amounts of Cabernet Franc (13%) and Merlot (11%). Concentration levels are intense. It’s a superb wine that can be enjoyed in the moment or cellared for greater development. Think supple, complex, complete, exquisite, velvety – and that’s Isosocles. We had it with a New York Sirloin smothered in sautéed mushrooms and onions and found true bliss. Once again, purchase cautiously. The Wine ConneXtion in North Andover has the best deal from what I’ve seen, $69.99.