Unique grapes that yield stunning new wines

Written by on in Flavor of the day, General Wine, Italian, White Wines

Zyme From Black to White captures the essence of the Rondinella grape, a key varietal in Amarone della Valpolicella.
Zyme From Black to White captures the essence of the Rondinella grape, a key varietal in Amarone della Valpolicella.
I consider spring a time of rebirth for lots of things, including my palate. Searching out exciting new wines is a favorite past-time, especially those made from unfamiliar grapes and innovative winemakers. Here are three discoveries to put on your white wine list.
• Zymé From Black to White, Veneto 2014, $19.99 — Celestino Gaspari is the Thomas Edison of Italian wines. An understudy to the late great winemaker Guiseppe Quintarelli, Gaspari is a tireless experimenter and has introduced a dozen new wines since launching a winery in 1999 in an old stone quarry in Verona’s Valpolicella Classico zone. Black to White is one of the success stories. Gaspari’s taken a red varietal — Rondinella — and blended the pulp (sans skins) with three aromatic white varietals — Gold Traminer, Kerner, Incrocio Manzoni. The juice from Rondinella, which is a vital component in crafting Amarone della Valpolicella, ferments in concrete vats for 20 days with the juice and skins from the white grapes. This adds intensity to the aromatics (wildflower, Golden apple, country herbs), flavors (white peach, apple, mint) and structure. There’s no oak in this luminous, pure, medium-bodied wine. The finish excels in length and complexity.
From the tiny commune of Cour-Cheverny in the Loire Valley comes this 100 percent Romorantin white wine.
From the tiny commune of Cour-Cheverny in the Loire Valley comes this 100 percent Romorantin white wine.

Black to White debuted in 2006 and continues to win raves. Vinousmedia expert Antonio Galloni called the 2013 vintage an “excellent choice for drinking now” and rated it 92 points. The 2014 vintage, now on shelves at the Wine ConneXtion in North Andover, is equally satisfying.
• Cheverny L’Epicourchois, Loire Valley, $23.99 — There are 69 wine-growing appellations in France’s beautiful Loire Valley, including the tiny commune of Cour-Cheverny where only one dry white wine, from one grape — Romorantin — is produced. And, wow, is it stunning. Romorantin is a close relative to Chardonnay, and this Cheverny mimics a refined Chablis, only slightly weightier. The color is yellow-gold. It’s fragrant and flavorful, with apple, melon and soft citrus notes. It was enjoyable with salmon, cheese tortellini and a beet salad. It’s available at Andover Classic Wines.
Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi is delicate, appealing white wine from the Piedmont.
Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi is delicate, appealing white wine from the Piedmont.
• Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi 2014, Italy, $15.99 — In the Piedmont, Pio Cesare crafts robust reds like Barolo and Barbaresco, but here he shows his delicate touch with great finesse in crafting an appealing white. The Cortese di Gavi grape comes from vines located in a small, exclusive area near the Ligurian border. They produce a dry, full-bodied white wine. Cesare’s slow fermentation process in steel tanks brings out the pure mineral elements of this wine. It’s silky smooth, clean and crisp with a trace of lemon drizzle on the finish. On sale at the Wine ConneXtion.