The Wine Butler, Mike Pigeon, arrived at our front door the other night carrying two pizzas and a bottle of wine.
Now this is what friends are for I thought to myself.
I happily greeted him and hungrily hurried him into the kitchen.
Mike’s wife Judy was visiting a sister in Florida, so the Wine Goddess, my wife Mary Lee, had concocted a “dine over” night for the visiting bachelor.
It was fine with me, especially after I made eye contact with the bottle under his arm: a 2010 Poderi di Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliano.
The Wine Butler picked it up at a N.H. Liquor Outlet for $17.
The Wine Goddess prepared a Mediterranean salad of greens, cucumbers, Greek olives and gorgonzola cheese, coated lightly with Balsamic vinegar.
I hadn’t tasted Dolcetto in a while. It is a red grape that thrives in the Piedmont, in northwest Italy, and Dogliano is a hilly village outside Monferrato. When people see Dolcetto (translation: little sweet one) on the label, invariably they think the wine is sweet. It isn’t. Instead, it’s wonderfully crafted light-bodied wine with subtle flavors of dried red fruits and rustic tones (mushrooms, earthiness). And sure enough, this cranberry-colored Dolcetto would be a great companion to a picnic in the park. It was satisfying in every respect with the vegetable and sausage pizzas, and I could imagine it being a perfect match for a meat calzone, antipasto or light pasta dish.
The second bottle opened was a 2012 Kiona Vineyards red blend of eight varietals from Washington State. Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (15%) and Syrah (13%) are the primary partners, yet the wine’s full-bodied backbone is enhanced by Carmenere, Sangiovese and Malbec. The 2012 vintage is one of Washington’s best, and Kiona Vineyards is on top of its game with this barrel-busting bargain. I loved the deep, dark berry flavors and the “dusty” grip it leaves on the back of the mouth, probably created by the Sangiovese. The Wine Butler charmingly described the “leather” traits as “Gucci handbag quality.”
Kiona costs $13.99 and is available at Andover Classic Wines in the Shawsheen Plaza on Route 24 in Andover.
We closed the evening in the chapel room, warmed by the fireplace, listening to great George Jones’ ballads of lovesick reflection. I broke out a new taste of luxury, recommended by Sam Messina at the Wine ConneXtion in North Andover — Bartolo Nardini’s Acqua di Cedro from Bassano ($22.95, 375 ml bottle). While on the order of Italy’s straw-colored limoncello, Cedro liqueur is crystal clear and slightly less syrupy and sweet. Made from the thick peel of the Citron Medica fruit (called brutta frutta, or the “ugly fruit” because of its oblong shape and ridged skin), it’s an exquisite, digestive sipper; imagine a velvety liquid of lemon-and-citrus pie floating across your tongue. The best part might be its stunning finish: a long fade to dryness.
It was a great way to end an enchanting evening. Salute!
I
Wine is Fantastic!