Israeli winemaking dates back 5,000 years – 2,000 years before the Romans crushed grapes – yet only recently has the small, eastern Mediterranean nation gained notice as a burgeoning wine paradise.
It’s true. Despite a land mass slightly smaller than the size of New Jersey, 14,400 total acres under vine (one-third of California’s Napa Valley), and a production output of 40 million bottles a year (California alone produces 2.5 billion bottles), Israel is marking its mark with a strong push to quality. The best wines are made from Bordeaux-style varieties. They thrive at higher elevations in the mountainous, rocky north (Galilee, Golan Heights) and the arid, southern desert (Negev Highlands). Overall, a wide range of soil types (volcanic, clay, chalky, limestone) and a consistently sunny and breezy Mediterranean climate provide conditions for developing unique terroir-driven wines. And this is where Israeli winemakers are excelling.
“There are new and exciting wine places throughout the world that deserve attention, and certainly Israel is one of these places,” said Erika Frey, a Boston-based certified sommelier and wine educator. Recently, Frey conducted a “Wines of Israel Masterclass” for media and trade officials, including a grand tasting of 11 wines, at the City Winery in Boston.
Frey said the modern Israeli wine movement began nearly 40 years ago. The introduction of New World technology and California expertise set off a small winery boom at the turn of the century. Today, there are 300 wineries in operation, 70 of them as commercial ventures. Frey said red wines command 80 percent of total production, although whites are trending upward.
While the United States is the largest importer of Israeli wines, supplies remain limited. Here are several to hunt down:
Yarden Blanc de Blanc 2011, Golan Heights Winery – This traditional method sparkling wine is 100 percent chardonnay. Vines grow on volcanic tuff at 3,000 feet above sea level, a cool-climate elevation that preserves acidity. Vivacious, racy, crisp and clean, this delicate wine delivers bright green apple/citrus flavors and an elegant mousse.
Adama Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Tabor Winery – From lower Galilee, this highly aromatic white is full of grassy and grapefruit notes, done in a mouthwatering style similar to the best sauvignon blancs from New Zealand. One of the few wineries bucking the red wine dominance, with its annual 2-million bottle output nearing a 50-50 split.
Viognier 2016, Kishor Vineyards – Rich baked apple pie, peach and toasty spices proliferate on a velvety, medium-bodied frame. The western Galilee nonprofit winery is located in Kibbutz Kishorit, one of Israel’s two socially conscious model communities for adults with special needs. The self-sustaining operation raises $2 million a year with Kishor Vineyards entering its ninth harvest season.
Cuvee Eva Blanc 2016, Jacques Capsouto Vignobles – A Rhone-style white blend of grenache blanc, clairette, roussanne and marsanne that is fresh, fruity and lively. Owner Capsouto formerly owned a Tribecca restaurant that was damaged during Hurricane Sandy. He moved to Galilee to make French wines and now produces 100,000 bottles annually.
Gofna Reserve Pinot Noir 2017, Gva’ot Winery – From the “cooler” Shomron Hills in the Central Mountains, Gofna is a miracle considering that pinot noir is a difficult grape to grow in searing heat. Night-time winds do the trick, preserving acidity levels and overall balance. Rich in plum, raspberry and brambly spices, Gofna received a 95-point score from Decanter magazine.
Rosso Red Blend 2016, Lueria Winery – From Upper Galilee, this mix of Italian-French varietals (sangiovese, barbera, cabernet sauvignon, syrah) is easy-drinking and abundantly fresh in red and blue fruit notes. A great pizza wine for sure.
Grenache 2016, Dalton Winery – While cabernet sauvignon remains Israel’s No.1 cultivated grape, distinctive wines like this have the potential to change drinking habits. A 9 percent addition of Syrah adds structure and heft to wonderful cherry fruit. The finish is dry, persistent. Dalton was the first commercial winery in Galilee and has an impressive history of pioneering Zinfandel, Petit Sirah and Pinot Gris wines.
Mountain Heights Shiraz, Tura Winery – The husband-wife team of Vared and Erez Ben Sa’adon craft this exceptional “mountain” red from vineyards located at some of Israel’s highest elevations in the Judean Hills. Big, bold dark fruit flavors burst forth on this full-bodied delight. A creamy texture adds to its appeal.
Mt. Amasa Blend 2014, Yatir Winery – The winery is located in Israel’s most arid region, where the Negev Desert meets the largest manmade forest in the world, Tel Arad National Forest. This dark purple-colored red is a fruit-forward mix of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Malbec. It warms the palate (14 percent alcohol) with a velvety coating of blackberry and licorice notes. Nice harmony in what the winery considers an entry-level wine.
Hayotzer Lyrica GSM 2016, Arza Winery – A very classy, fragrant and juicy Rhone-style blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre that stays fresh and energetic from first to last sip. The vineyards reside in terra rossa soils above solid limestone bedrock, lending a bevy of mineral nutrients to this bottling. Arza – rebranded as Hayotzer (“Creator”)- is a boutique winery owned by the Shor family which, in 1847, established Jerusalem’s first winery in the Old City. The label depicts the owner’s silhouette.
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Alexander Winery – Cabernet Sauvignon is king in Israel and this bold red from Upper Galilee is a fine representation of upscale quality. It’s got a layered smoky, meaty and graphite finish to go along with its rich black and red fruit flavors. A wine that captures your interest.
,
Recent Comments