Portugal and Spain have a lot more in common than the Iberian Peninsula: they’re turning out quality wines at affordable prices.
At a recent wine tasting, I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness of recent vintages and the dramatic consumer-friendly pricing.
Portugal is famous for its port wines from the Douro River valley in the north-central part of the country. These fortified wines, made from native grapes, can last up to 100 years in the bottle.
Touriga Nacional is a primary red grape used to make port. It grows remarkably well in the extremely hot climate and nutrient poor schist soils that cover the steep granite slopes where old vines are planted.
Touriga Nacional is also the main component of Manoella, a terrific red blend from the Douro’s Wine & Soul winery, which features a husband-wife team of owners and winemakers — Sandra Tavares da Silva and Jorge Serodio Borges.
Manoella costs $17.99. It is a dark purple wine with intense blackberry flavors that coat the palate and linger. Think of a Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc blend, but this one goes deeper in structure and texture with the addition of three other indigenous grapes — Toiuriga Franca, Tinta Roritz and Tinta Francesca.
While a small first sip was enough to tell me to purchase a bottle, the clincher came several days later when I opened it and allowed the wine to sit in a glass for a few minutes. The flavors really exploded. It was a perfect match for grilled sausages and I imagine it would be great with a juicy steak.
Two Spanish wines also caught my eye — and my wallet — at the Wine ConneXtion event, sponsored by Winebow Distributors of Boston. They were the 2009 Muga Rioja Reserva ($21.99) and 2011 Rio Madre Rioja ($9.49).
The alert reader is saying, “Why two Riojas with a $12 difference in cost?”
The answer can be found in the different grapes used to make the Muga (Tempranillo) and Rio Madre (Graciano).
Tempranillo is indigenous to Spain and often used as the dominant grape in Rioja blends. It produces a ruby-colored wine with rich strawberry and spice flavors. (Tempranillo is synonymous with Portugal’s Tinto Roriz). The Muga Rioja hits the palate like a fruit-forward Pinot Noir and then switches gears into a nice, off-dry, full-bodied red with a lot of plum and herb tastes. This bottling is a lovely expression of Tempranillo’s warmth.
The Rio Madre Rioja relies on 100 percent Graciano. The aromas are more fragrant and the taste is slightly fruitier than the aforementioned Tempranillo blend. Graciano adds a bit more acidity and licorice to the black fruit flavors. This bottling scored 91 points in a recent international competition, and wine experts Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer have given it glowing reviews.
If you want to have some fun — and impress your guests — I’d suggest you buy a bottle of each for your next steak fry or burger bash. Serve the Graciano with snacks and then pour the Muga with the entreé. Ask the guests to rate the wines. No matter which one they select, you’re the winner — The Muga is worth the extra money and the Rio Madre is an outstanding buy.
Email comments to jcampanini@lowellsun.com.
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