Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2013: A Super Tuscan at a super price

Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2013 is fresh and flavorful Super Tuscan at an affordable price.
Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2013 is fresh and flavorful Super Tuscan at an affordable price.

Marchese Lodovico Antinori produced Ornellaia Estate’s first vintage in 1985, marking the historic launch of the Super Tuscan blend of Italy’s Sangiovese grape with that of France’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
While the Marchese is gone and the Ornellaia Estate has changed hands several times, the wine world has never been the same.
While bottles of the prestigious Ornellaia have become the prized treasures of collectors and wine auction houses, the estate crafts a second tier bottling, Le Volte dell’Ornellaia. It uses the same varietals and precise fermentation process (each varietal is fermented separately before blending) to deliver a truly good wine at a fraction of Ornellaia’s cost ($200 a bottle).
If you’ve never tried a Super Tuscan, Le Volte is an ideal candidate for its expressive dark fruit aromas and refined, complex tastes. The Ornellaia Estate is located in Bolgieri near the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The hillside vineyards get plenty of sunshine, cool night-time breezes, and plenty of maritime nutrients, including seasalt, that add unique characteristics to grapes.
Terroir and climate conditions can influence a vintage in many ways, so it’s interesting to note the subtle differences in Le Volte over the past two releases. I reviewed the 2012 a while back and found it quite enjoyable. It was the product of a dry growing year. Late rains in August and September aided the berries’ development and the harvest was completed on October 4.
Cold, rainy conditions began the 2013 growing season, followed by a normal sunny June and hot August and September. Mid-August rains cooled the vineyards a bit and fostered a longer hang time for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to ripen. Harvest was completed October 14, a full 10 days longer than the 2012.
The difference, in my view, is that Le Volte 2013 is a more lustrous wine. The blackberry, woodsy aromatics and flavors are magnified in the fresh Merlot (50 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20 percent). The Sangiovese, which makes up 30 percent of the blend, lends its herbal qualities and dryness to the opulent finish. It ends in a mouth-watering experience.
Le Volte will probably reach its drinking peak in 2020 but it is approachable now. It retails for $30 but I’ve seen it on sale in the $25 range in Massachusetts and New Hampshire outlets. It’s a good buy at either price. If you’re planning a dinner party and want something special on the table for the main meat or pasta entrée, Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is an excellent choice.