Chilean wines with divine inspiration

Label_MontesAlphaCS12Chilean winemakers are turning out better wines every year, especially big, powerful reds like Cabernet Sauvignon that soak up the rocky, mountainous terroir and deliver a spicier edge than their California counterparts.

Since 1987, the Montes Alpha winery has become a force to be reckoned with. You’ve probably seen its distinctive label: a Raphael-like angel in flight holding a wine glass in one hand and a grape cluster in the other.

The Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon sells for less than $20 and represents a tremendous value.

Recently, I sampled both the 2011 and 2012 vintages to see if I could detect any noticeable differences. I was alerted to the fact that the Montes Alpha winery is a trailblazer in eco-friendly, sustainable farming techniques. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced in a dry farming environment, meaning the vines relied on natural rainwater falling from the sky rather than man-made irrigation. Some might ask, “What’s the difference?” By “starving” the plant of water, the roots from the vine go deeper into the soil in search of natural elements and liquids which intensify the grape’s characteristics.

A prolonged drought can harm a grape’s development, and that’s where an irrigation system serves as a vital backup.

It should be noted that there is a difference between drought — or dryness — than heat. Winemakers would prefer the former rather than the later, since the vine shuts down when the temperature reaches 90 degrees or higher. (Cooling winds moderate high temperatures and keep the plant functioning.)

Colchagua Valley, in Chile’s central region, is marked by steep slopes and granitic soils. While it is closer to the equator than any European vineyard, the valley’s vineyards are cooled down by Pacific Ocean winds. Also, ice melt flows down from the Andes Mountains providing a water source for irrigation.

Sustainable farming techniques also reduce or eliminate fertilizers and pesticides. A truer expression of the grape is a desirable result.

The Montes Alpha wines were tasted with my wife, the Wine Goddess, who made a feast of beef and chicken fajitas for a delicious pairing. Here are our notes:

• Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 —  The earthy aromatics benefited from a 20-minute decanting. The dark, ruby color was exquisite. The initial sip yielded pleasant berry fruit, warm, medium-bodied texture, and smoothness. The Cabernet had an appealing mid-palate lift. The finish wasn’t as long as I would have liked, but it didn’t deter from the overall experience.
• Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 — This was much more expressive out of the bottle, suggesting more concentrated flavors. From sip to swallow, it was deeper in taste and fuller in texture. Layers of blackberries, mocha and pepper caught your attention. The Wine Goddess liked the subtle tannic grip which added a touch of dryness.  I noted a hint of vanilla or caramel at the end. Overall, this was a firmer, more elegant vintage.